Way back in the mid 1700’s there were large numbers of British troops in colonial India. Malaria was a problem, and a preventative cure was to drink massive amounts of quinine. Quinine tastes absolutely terrible on its own, and various concoctions were drummed up to make the proper dosage palatable. The one fix that everyone could agree on was to add a bit of gin to the medicine, and besides evolving into the gin and tonic it saved many lives.
Now, large numbers of British soldiers drinking large amounts of gin created a problem: There wasn’t enough gin in India. Creative entrepreneurs on the subcontinent began to distill their own, but the recipes from England and Holland had ingredients that were very expensive in India. The distilleries improvised, and a new style of gin was born. These new gins tasted slightly sweeter and carried less of the “Christmas tree” juniper essence. The exotic botanical infusions in “Indian Gin” are spicy and intriguing in the way that other gins aren’t.
Now, being in India one should always do what the Indians do, and that is, enjoy a decent gin. However, in this multi-nationally distilled world we live in, it seems many of the original brands – labeled “Bombay Gin” for example – have now upped sticks and gone to live in Warrington, in rainy Northern England. Hardly the spot for a cooling tonic after a chukka or two. So the search for an Indian gin – distilled in India – began.
With the help of some of Delhi’s outrageously priced bars (USD48 a shot) it is (a) hardly surprising the Hindus don’t drink, and (b) I had to resort to some internet resources as well. Nonetheless – this is what I found is still out there, either carrying the flame or still distilled in India:
Tanqueray Rangpur Gin - a new, lime flavored gin, distilled with rare Rangpur limes for a subtle gin taste. The Rangpur lime, only found in India, resembles an orange or tangerine but tastes like zesty lime. Mix with a few drops of bitters for a ‘Rangpur Ginger.’ Indian ingredients, but distilled in the UK.
McDowells “Blue Riband” Gin - Distilled since 1959, this is the best established and well known of the native Indian gins. Slightly sweet, it’s great in a Gin Fizz…the top range brand being “Premium Blue London Dry Gin.”
Saffron Gin - Saffron Gin is a unique recipe discovered in the archives of France’s colonial past when England and France both claimed India as their jewel and gin rich in exotic botanicals was the fashion. This handcrafted, small batch pot distilled gin is made from the finest natural botanicals, in addition to the Saffron which gives a delicately spicy character, the recipe has Juniper, Coriander, Lemon, Orange Peel, Angelica Seeds, Iris and Fennel. Note: It’s bright orange…
Bombay Sapphire – Yup, that blue bottled gin. Spicy, with a pronounced juniper palate, this super-premium version of regular Bombay (originally distilled in India) is the brainchild of marketing genius Michel Roux of Carillon Importer. Only introduced in 1988, it has become a major hit among gin connoisseurs. Sapphire offers a combination of no less than ten natural botanicals–more than any other gin–including grains of paradise, almonds, lemon peel, licorice, juniper berries, cubeb berries, orris, coriander, angelica and cassia bark. Makes a martini of unprecedented smoothness. Not Indian, but it harks back to the good old days.
Gilbeys Gin - Manufactured in Aurangabad, under licence. So it’s actually made here. Reminiscent of spices, minerals, and dried herbs. Medium light body with a delicate, creamy texture, and a good combination of rich aromatics.
High Society Gin - A 1970’s brand made by Herbertsons in the initial distillery at Cherthala in Kerala. I’m not sure if this is still available.
Bulldog Gin – This is a new brand, and is designed to be an Indian Gin in the truest definition, carrying the torch that Tanqueray dropped when they discontinued their Malacca Gin brand. Twelve ingredients are used to impart flavor, and the more unique are dragon eye, poppies, lotus leaves, cassia, and almonds. Dragon eye is better known as longan, and is reputed to help both sexes with a little extra zing in the bedroom. Wahey ! Bulldog contains medium juniper, strong citrus, cinnamon, cardamom, and black pepper, and spicy grains of paradise finish. Not many gins are pleasant warm, but this is a welcomed exception. A small splash of water subdues the nose into a flowerful bouquet, and removes some of the fire from the spices on the finish. Distilled in London, but ‘in the tradition’.
The following Gins are around, I was lucky enough to get on the Indian licensing boards website for brand licensing, so these brands are somewhere out there too. Drop us a line if you find any!
Savoy Club Gin, by Sunshine Distillers of Delhi;
Big Band London Dry Gin from Mohan Meakins Ltd, who also make the Goan “Old Monk Rum” which is a favorite;
Blue Moon Extra Dry Gin from NV Distillers;
Lady Di Gin with fresh lime, distilled by Gwalior Distillers of New Delhi;
21st Century Extra Dry Gin from Som Distillers;
High Ball Gin from Kedia Great Galeon Distillers;
White Mischief Paradise Gin from Shaw Wallace Distillers – which sounds like it might be exported to Africa with a name like that;
Blue Berry Dry Gin from Kesar Enterprises;
And last but not least, Calcutta Dry Gin from Gajaraj Distillers, which I bet is a cracker.
So there you have it. Indian Gin is alive and well, and still living in India.
Pip Pip!