Local traders and governments of both sides of the China-India border have described the recently re-opened Nathu La Pass, the ancient trade route between the two countries, as having a “disappointing” impact on any meaningful trade in its first recent year of operations.
The pass, one of the worlds highest roads, was reopened just over a year ago on July 6th 2006 after intense lobbying by both governments, having been closed since the India-China border war in 1962. Currently, agreements between the two nations limit trade across the pass to the export of 29 types of goods from India and import of 15 from the Chinese side. Exports from India include agricultural implements, blankets, copper products, clothes, cycles, coffee, tea, barley, rice, flour, dry fruits, vegetables, vegetable oil, molasses and candy, tobacco, snuff, spices, shoes, kerosene oil, stationery, utensils, wheat, liquor, milk processed product, canned food, cigarettes, local herb, palm oil and hardware. Chinese exports to India include goat skin, sheep skin, wool, raw silk, yak tail, yak hair, china clay, borax, butter, common salt, horses, goats, and sheep. Restrictions are also placed on traders, with permits only given to those who were Sikkimese citizens before the kingdom merged with India in 1975.
The opening also shortens the travel distance to important Hindu and Buddhist pilgrimage sites in the region, a source of comfort to many locals in the region who had been cut off from relatives and ancestral places of worship for over forty years.
The two sides also decided to open two border trade markets - the Renqinggang market in Yadong and Changgu Mart in Sikkim, which the two countries have agreed will be open between June and September every year. “But figures show that the border trade has been uninspiring since the re-opening,” head of the customs of Lhasa, capital of southwest China’s Tibet autonomous region, Zhang Weidong commented.
China’s Renqinggang market received 574 Indian traders last year while 1,217 Chinese traders went to India’s Changgu Mart during the period, statistics from the Commerce Bureau of Yadong county said. The total trade volume for the year reached about 1.49 million yuan (196,000 US dollars), including 1.04 million yuan of exports and 450,000 yuan of imports, noted the Tibet Regional Commerce Department.
Only 11 motor vehicles and 56 traders from the Chinese side went through the pass and 12 motor vehicles and 38 traders from the Indian side crossed the pass on July 2, which was nevertheless described as “the busiest” day by local officials since the re-opening.
A senior official in Tibet said just a month after the re-opening of the pass that the trade was running at a “low level” and was “not ideal” because “India has unilaterally imposed restrictions on trade through Nathu La.”
In a move to change the situation, the two sides have agreed that the trade through the pass this year should begin a month earlier (from May 1) than last year and will continue until November 30 compared with last year’s September 28. These restrictions, largely enforced by the winter months, have nonetheless been welcomed by local businessmen.
“The re-opening of the Pass and the trade volume achieved within just a year are at least a good start for the two sides, considering the trade route had once been closed down for 44 years,” said Gao Shangde, deputy director of the Tibet regional commerce department.
He said Indian commerce authorities and Sikkim state are upgrading the roads leading to the border trade mart and the infrastructure of the mart in an effort to boost trade. “We still need time for growth of border trade.”
Before the pass was opened, almost all the Indo-China trade went through the port of Tianjin more than 4,000 km (2,500 mi) away. With the opening, this distance has been shortened to 1,200 km (745 mi). Trade volumes through the pass had been expected to to grow to Rs. 206 crore (US$ 44.6 million) by 2007, and Rs. 12,203 crore (US$ 2.6 billion) by 2015. However, the reality has fallen woefully short, mainly it is felt on Indian nervousness about allowing Sinification of an area that is close to still disputed territories. While the road on the Chinese side is well maintained and tarmac’d, the Indian side of the pass is still undeveloped and requires specific military endorsed permission to enter.
But despite it’s apparent quaintness as a relic of the silk road, there are some serious aspirations about the Nathu La Pass. It offers the Chinese access to the port of Kolkata (Calcutta), situated about 1,100 km (700 mi) from Lhasa, for transshipments to and from Tibet, and it is that aspect of trade that had led to the initial predictions of millions of dollars worth of trade passing through. Tourism is also off the map for the present - tourists not being expected to receive permits to cross the border until 2012.
Quite what the future holds is uncertain. But for now, the opening of the Nathu La Pass seems more a gesture of the ‘re-engagement’ of China and India than a serious attempt at reviving an old trade route.
However the Indian locals are restless. “My family have traded wool with Tibet for centuries” cries one old woman to 2point6billion. “Yet even with all the new roads and government talking I still can’t get so much as a yak tail across while the Chinese can”. as she too airs her grievances already at the perceived trade imbalances and unjust nature of the two sides only being permitted to trade specific goods.
But the Chinese aren’t giving up yet on resurrecting the pass. On the Tibetan side, two highways—from Kangmar to Yadong, and from Yadong to Nathu La — were listed in the 2006 construction plans of the Ministry of Transportation and the Development and Reform Commission of China and are now under construction. Plans are also underway to start a bus service from Gangtok to Lhasa, and to extend the Qinghai-Tibet Railway to Yadong over the next decade. Tibetan traders and Chinese merchants may well see their shipments off at Kolkata yet.
“It’s been 44 years” says one Tibetan trader we saw “Another four or five won’t make much more difference as the two local governments get to communicate and understand each other more. India needs the Chinese trade and Kolkata needs the shipping business. It’s the only thing that can rescue that huge old port after the collapse of the Jute trade with Bangladesh. Kolkata needs new trade and the Nathu La Pass can give it that. It’s only a matter of time. And then maybe we Tibetans can trade again with India as we always have done instead of the Chinese taking it all from us”.
Further Reading: China Expat, Magazine “Chinas Trade Routes With India” April 2007 at www.chinaexpat.com